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Best Thread for Seed Beading: Nylon vs Fishing Line

Nylon beading threads including Nymo, KO and SoNo spools in different colors

Selecting the right beading thread is key to a successful project. Most beading threads fall into two main categories: nylon and fishing line style. Each behaves differently while stitching and affects the structure and durability of the finished beadwork.

Comparing Nylon vs. Fishing Line Thread for Beading

Nylon threads (Nymo, K.O., Silamide, Good Thread)

  • Soft and flexible
  • Slight stretch
  • May require conditioner
  • Can be cut by sharp-edged beads
  • Available in many colors
  • Ideal for fringe and softer beadwork

Fishing line style threads (FireLine, WildFire)

  • Very strong with minimal stretch
  • Highly abrasion resistant
  • Do not require conditioner
  • Maintain firm tension
  • Ideal for bezels, rings, and structured designs

The sections below explain the differences between specific nylon and fishing-line brands in more detail.

Choosing Nylon Thread for Beadwork

Below are commonly used nylon threads for beadwork, including size range availability and the most commonly used size where applicable. Diameter sizes are approximate and may vary by manufacturer.

Nymo Beading Thread

  • Bonded nylon (cone preferred over bobbin)
  • Sizes: B (~0.20 mm), D (~0.30 mm), F (~0.35 mm)
  • Most common: size D
  • Best with: 11/0 and 8/0 seed beads
  • Tension: Moderate
  • Notes: Bobbin thread frays more easily; conditioning recommended for bobbins.

Shop Nymo Size D Bobbins (60 yd)  or Nymo Cone (1500 yd) 

Good Thread (John Bead Corp)

Spool of Good Thread bonded nylon beading thread by John Bead Corp with seed beads and needle on gray background.
Good Thread is comparable to Nymo thread on the cone.

  • Bonded nylon
  • Diameter: ~0.30 mm (similar to Nymo D)
  • Best with: 11/0 and 8/0 seed beads
  • Tension: Moderate
  • Notes: Designed specifically for beadwork; similar performance to cone Nymo

Shop Good Thread (55 yard)

Silamide

Silamide nylon thread available on spools and cards
  • Lightly waxed 2-ply twisted nylon
  • Diameter: ~0.30 mm
  • Best with: 11/0 and 8/0 seed beads
  • Tension: Firm, slightly different feel from bonded nylon
  • Notes: Plies can separate when threading; conditioner may help.
  • May need to be conditioned mid-way if you work with long thread
  • Read my full Silamide thread review 
Shop Silamide (40 yards)

K.O. Beading Thread

KO Beading thread in beige with beads
K.O. nylon beading thread is one of the best for soft supple fringe
  • Pre-waxed single strand nylon
  • Diameter: ~0.20 mm
  • Best with: 11/0 and 15/0 seed beads
  • Tension: Softer, looser feel
  • Best for: Fringe and delicate beadwork
  • Read my full K.O. Beading Thread review
Shop K.O. Beading Thread (55 yards)

Thread Conditioners for Nylon Beading Thread

Beeswax and silicone synethetic thread conditioner
Thread conditioners help keep nylon threads from fraying or tangling

Some nylon threads benefit from conditioning to reduce fraying and drag. Conditioning can also help maintain more consistent tension, especially with longer working lengths.

Beeswax

Adds body and reduces fraying. Can increase stiffness and may leave residue if overapplied.

Thread Magic

Synthetic conditioner designed for sewing and beadwork. Reduces drag and fraying without stickiness.
Use conditioner sparingly. Too much product can build up and affect bead holes.

Choosing Fishing Line Thread for Beadwork

Some fishing line threads are marketed specifically for beadwork, while others are traditional fishing lines that bead artists have adopted because of their strength and durability. In many cases, the products are identical or very similar, just packaged differently.

Fishing line thread is sold by pound test rather than letter size. The pound test affects diameter, strength, and how many passes you can make through a bead. Diameter measurements are approximate and may vary slightly by manufacturer.

Common beadwork sizes:

4–5 lb (~0.12–0.14 mm)

  • Suitable for size 15/0 and 11/0 seed beads
  • Good for delicate work and multiple thread passes

6 lb (~0.15 mm)

  • Standard size for most bead weaving
  • Ideal for size 11/0 seed beads
  • Works well for peyote, brick stitch, herringbone, and netting

8 lb (~0.18 mm)

  • Adds durability and structure
  • Suitable for size 11/0 and 8/0 seed beads
  • Good for bezels, rings, and firm components

10 lb (~0.20 mm)

  • Best for larger beads or larger holes
  • Used when extra strength is needed

FireLine

FireLine bead thread surrounded by containers of colorful Czech seed beads
FireLine beading thread is one of the best for beginning beaders

  • Thermally bonded braided polyethylene
  • Most commonly used brand for bead weaving
  • Available in Smoke and Crystal
  • Smooth surface with firm tension control
  • Widely available in fishing and bead sections

Shop FireLine

WildFire

Spool of WildFire beading thread with beaded earrings
  • Thermally bonded braided thread
  • Slightly more flexible feel than FireLine
  • Good abrasion and pierce resistance
  • Available in multiple neutrals and 3 colors

Shop WildFire 

PowerPro

PowerPro beading thread box and spool
PowerPro fishing line works well for beadweaving and loom beadwork

  • Braided polyethylene fishing line
  • Sold for fishing, commonly adapted for beadwork
  • Available in a wide range of sizes and colors
  • Durable with strong tension control

Shop PowerPro 

DandyLine

DandyLine beading thread on a natural background
  • Braided polyethylene line marketed for beadwork
  • Designed to reduce fraying and improve durability
  • Good for beadweaving, stringing and loom beadwork
  • Touts itself as stronger than other fishing line threads
  • Available in black or white
Shop DandyLine 

Hercules Braided Fishing Line

Hercules fishing line in multiple colors on spools
  • Braided polyethylene with fade-resistant colors
  • Performs well in structured beadwork
  • Notable for working in both brick stitch and fringe
  • Read my full Hercules Thread Review

Shop Hercules 

Thread Cutting Tools for Fishing Line

Fishing line style threads are difficult to pierce and do not fray easily. They are also harder to cut than nylon and can dull fine thread scissors quickly.

Thread Snips

Small, sharp snips allow you to trim close to your beadwork and handle braided thread more easily than embroidery scissors.

Shop Thread Snips

Thread Burner

Retractable thread burner for beadwork
Retractable thread burner is one of several styles available to burn thread ends
A thread burner uses heat to melt and seal braided fishing line. It creates a clean, secure finish and helps prevent sharp trimmed ends.

Shop Thread Burners 

For longevity, consider keeping a separate cutting tool specifically for fishing line threads to avoid dulling your thread scissors.

Choosing the Right Beading Thread for Your Project

Over time, you may develop go-to threads for certain techniques. For example, Nymo Size D on a cone remains a reliable all-purpose nylon for many seed bead projects. For stiffer, more structured beadwork, 6 lb or 8 lb FireLine is a common choice. When softness and movement matter, K.O. thread performs beautifully in fringe.

Thread preference often evolves with experience. The more you experiment with different stitches, bead size and thread, the more intentional your choices will become.

For detailed testing and comparisons, explore the individual thread reviews linked throughout this guide.

Comments

Sneaky Burrito said…
Does it bother you when the smoke color from the Fireline comes off on your fingers? I agree it shows up less than the crystal for most applications but I just can't take the gray stuff on my hands. I usually use the 4 lb crystal Fireline because it fits through a size 12 needle really easily and for some reason, size 12 is my strong preference for needle size (perhaps an odd thing to have an opinion about?).

I bought so many of the little spools of Nymo in the late 1990s when I started beading and I still have them...I like the Toho OneG a little more than Nymo and I need to try some more weights of the Miyuki Duraline because the first one I bought was too flimsy for my liking.

I find Nanofil and Wildfire pretty similar to Fireline but had not heard of DynaLine before. I have some PowerPro but haven't gotten around to using it yet.

Sorry to write a comment this length, I have been thinking about this topic a lot lately and don't know anyone in my day-to-day life who has the least bit of interest in such things.
Denmob said…
Great article and feedback - I remain in a state of confusion for just about ANY project that requires beading thread...so find both very helpful. (Can't wait until I figure out what size bead cap/crimp ends to use with what size leather cord, for that matter!)
Anonymous said…
I've been using the dyed FireLine sold by www.sparklespot.com. The owner worked with a chemist to come up with 12 different colors, including Azure, Grape and Cherry. Some of the color dyes are more colorfast than others, but I've had pretty good luck with them. I love the durability of Fireline, I don't have to worry about a piece breaking. I made a bracelet with seven component pieces that I connected using Nymo thread. I made several passes through each connection, but one connection starting coming apart after just a half dozen times wearing the bracelet.
I haven't often had the problem with the smoke color fireline. Maybe it depends on the roll or the environment (i.e. humidity or something?). I have had it happen once or twice and then I just wipe down the thread with a tissue or rag - not much more work than dragging the nylon thread through a conditioner.
I like a size 12 needle too - although I am trying some different ones of those too. I thought Tulip needles were the only ones, but I used a John James size 12 this week and I loved the little bit of give it had when I was brick stitching. But I know they break much easier than Tulips.
I'm happy for your in-depth reply. I like to consider other beader's thoughts and experiences and know about threads I haven't tried yet.
Thank you - it's great to know what else you are having problems with. I have lots of leather cord and haven't done much with it yet. And also lots of pretty crimp endings. I'll make a note and maybe tackle it on vacation next month.
Thank you for the link to colored FireLine! Wow! That almost blew my budget as I immediately wanted the 12 color super pack. I'm going to restrain myself at least temporarily until I try some of the other colored thread to decide how much of a difference it makes. I'll add the link in the main article so others know about it.
Hi, Lisa, I work with Fire Line the most. My favorite is 6# crystal. The smoke color does rub off on my hands and I have had it stain the inside of light color beads. I live in FL, though, with high humidity. The black satin FL is nice, too, and I try to avoid the smoke at all costs. For brick stitch fringe earrings, I use 6# FL on top and make the fringe with KO. Hana thread works well for bead embroidery. I love thread and cord and just like to experiment and use what calls for my 'next' project. Thank you for the blog post.
Sneaky Burrito said…
I have snapped quite a few John James needles. Like more than 10. So, I stick with Tulip, which I have not broken. I may have spent $$$$ with Fire Mountain so I get Platinum Partner pricing and it's not too bad to add a pack or two of needles to other orders.

I probably still have all the Nymo because I don't like using thread conditioner although I admit it helps a lot. I am using it lately to make some peyote samples for a project I have in mind.

For some reason after I use the smoke Fireline it looks like I have been reading a cheaply-printed newspaper all day. Maybe it is something about the combination of humidity where I live and the condition of the skin on my hands.
Azr118 said…
Hi! I’m new to this bead weaving stuff and I recently made some fringe earrings and I noticed that my fringes are kinda stiff, I want to know how to make them more flowy? Not sure if that’s the right word to use... anyway I think the thread I’m using is totally fine for the stitch part but I just want my fringes to be better. Any recommendations? Thanks!
Donna Malayeri said…
I'm not the blog author, but the way to do this is either use very loose tension for the fringe, or just switch to Nymo for just the fringe. What you're describing is just the stiffness of FireLine. It's great for stitches, but fringe is the one thing that's hard to do well!
Annie said…
I noticed the grey coming off of the fireline smoke when waxing the thread. It doesn't do that with other colors. I'm a fairly new beader. I don't know anything. I learned how to do ladder and brick stitch from Sister Beads on YouTube. I made some earrings using fireline 8 lb thread and the fringes are curling up every which way :D. What is the best thread for fringe earrings?
Annie said…
To sneaky burrito I appreciate all the info about the different threads etc. Thank you (:
I like KO thread for soft supple bead fringe. I haven't often had a problem with the gray coming off FireLine, but I live in a very dry climate, so humidity may be the cause. You can read more about KO thread in this article: https://www.lisayangjewelry.com/2020/07/ko-beading-thread-review.html