Brick stitch is a perfect beadwork stitch for beginners. This heart pattern is also perfect for beginners because, in addition to practicing the basic stitch, you can learn fundamental techniques like increasing and decreasing on the beginning and ends of rows.
To get started, you will need a beading needle. Tulip beading needles are my favorite, but they are expensive, so I also use John James or John Bead beading needles.
I have made these hearts with a variety of beading threads. I tend to use what is nearby, whatever color is most appropriate or select based on the beads I'm using. For more information on bead thread selection and types, you may find this article on finding the best thread for beading helpful.
Today's tutorial is using FireLine 10 lb weight in Crystal color. I'm using a thicker than normal thread because the beads are Miyuki size 10 delica beads - which have a substantially larger hole than a size 11. The bead color is Sparkling Rose Lined Crystal (DBM-914).
Flat brick stitch starts with a row of ladder stitch. Pick up two beads, go back through the first bead in the same direction as you originally did, and then through the new bead again.
Repeat these steps to add a third bead to the ladder. After adding the third bead, I go back through the second and first beads to tighten the row and move the thread so my tail and working thread end aligned. This will make it easier to add a chain or jump rings to hang the charm.
With your thread aligned like below, you are ready to start brick stitching. If you didn't align your thread like this - it doesn't matter - you can weave the thread around when the heart is done.
To start a row of flat brick stitch, pick up two beads. Put your needle under the first thread bridge on the prior row formed by the ladder stitch.
Of course, that is why it is called 'brick stitch' because of the stacking alignment similar to how bricks are set.
Pick up one bead for the next stitch and repeat the process. Put your needle under the thread bridge between the second and third beads on the prior row, then stitch up through the bead.
Adding the fourth bead on the row is increasing the width or the row, so it is called doing an increase. Note that the first stitch on the row was also an increase because the project increased in size, but since you picked up two beads, you didn't have to stitch under a thread bridge twice. The two beads just aligned across the thread bridge. In general, an 'increase' is when you have to stitch under the thread bridge a second time.
In order to do this, you will re-use the thread bridge that you used for the last bead. Since the beads are small, you won't be able to see where to place your needle very well, but you need to try and put it in the space between the beads and lift it up so it sits under the bridge between the beads. Sometimes if you try to slip under the bridge, you will stitch into the threads. This can split and weaken them (and also makes it really hard to 'undo' a stitch).
The third row is worked just like the second. Pick up two beads and stitch under the first bridge and up through the second bead, then add one bead at a time. For the last stitch increase, go under the last thread bridge a second time.
A quick note of discovery. I am right handed and I find it easiest to brick stitch from left to right. For the row above, I went from right to left and I realized my left hand fingers were getting in the way of making the stitch. That means, at the end of every row, I typically turn my beadwork around and work in the same direction for each row. I hope that helps someone.
At this point, you might like to see the pattern that your working. It becomes important, because now you'll start doing a decrease on the end of one row and an increase on the other end of the row. You can read the pattern from the top or bottom. We have just completed the third row.
To start the fourth row, there is a decrease. To decrease, you will still pick up two beads to start the row, but instead of stitching under the first bridge, put your needle under the second thread bridge of the prior row and then go up through the second bead.
Similar to the increase that happens automatically at the beginning of each row, a decrease will happen naturally at the end of the row if you don't stitch under the last bridge two times. When we talk about decreasing in brick stitch, it usually pertains to the front of the row, where you need to consciously skip the first thread bridge and go under the second one to make the beadwork decrease in size.
When you do a decrease and pull the thread taut, you may notice that the first bead doesn't sit neatly tucked in like it has in prior rows. It is a slanted.
To put it into alignment, I used a locking stitch - which is basically a ladder stitch to keep the first two beads aligned. The only time I typically need a locking stitch is when I am doing a decrease at the start of a row. The locking stitch is optional - but depending on the size and type of beads, the slant of the beads can be really noticeable and throw your pattern out of whack. I pretty much always use one - and I can notice when people don't... especially on diamond shaped or triangle brick stitch earrings.
Now you continue to bead the rest of the row, ending the row with an increase like the previous ones.
Following the shape is a bit challenging, but you just need to remember one side of the heart is increasing and then decreasing to reach the middle while the other side is consistently increasing to come to a point.
Beading software does a word chart map, but I think it is difficult to follow for brick stitch without telling you which thread bridge you are stitching in to. (i.e. first or second), which it doesn't do. My suggestion is to follow the shape of the diagram and count the rows to verify whether you should be increasing or decreasing. Many people mark off each row on the pattern when it is complete to keep their place.
When you are done, your heart should look like mine below. Of course, if you didn't re-align your thread on the first row of brick stitch, you may have one thread towards the bottom side of the heart and the other at the top side.
In some future posts, I will show you how to make different size hearts, join them together add patterns to the shapes and use them to make jewelry.
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