Selecting the best thread for your seed bead projects can be tricky, especially since it often depends on the bead weaving stitch or the project you are making.
There are lots of choices for thread material, thread size, needle size as well as thread conditioners. All of this can add up to a big headache for new beaders looking to make the best choice.
The size and type of thread you choose for your beadwork can influence:
- how easily the thread goes through the beads
- how many times you can put the thread through the beads
- how easily the thread will tangle or knot when you're stitching
- if you need to condition the thread before using it
- if the thread will stretch once you've completed your project
- if the thread will fray and therefore how long your beadwork will last and how easy it is to stitch
- how well the thread will hold tension in your beadwork
- the best method for tying off the thread
- how stiff or supple your finished beadwork will be (i.e. fringe)
- and there's probably more...
With so much riding on this decision, shouldn't you spend a little time to know about your beading thread options?
Choosing Nylon Thread for Beadwork
Nylon beading thread is very popular and available in a variety of sizes and colors depending on the manufacturer. Nymo brand is one of the most popular and widely available. Other popular brands are SoNo, K.O., and Silamide. Some nylon threads, like Nymo, were made to use for upholstery, while others are made specifically for beadwork.
In general, nylon thread is supple and has a small amount of give or stretch. Depending on the brand, it may benefit from using a thread conditioner or it may be pre-conditioned. Nylon threads are lightweight and can tangle so using thread conditioner or buying a thread that is already conditioned helps to prevent this.
Thread conditioner also helps limit abrasion as the thread is pulled through the beads. Beeswax is a thread conditioner or there are specialty products available like Thread Magic. Nylon thread frays and it can be easy to split the thread with your needle when doing some stitches, like brick stitch. Splitting the thread may not seem like a big deal when you first start bead weaving, but it weakens your beadwork and makes it difficult to un-do stitches if you make a mistake.
Thread tension tends to be a little looser with nylon beading thread versus fishing line. Beeswax because it is slightly sticky can improve tension with nylon thread. It can also get gunky, so running your thread across the beeswax once or twice, then running your fingers over the thread to smooth it out and remove larger pieces will help get a smooth even application.
There is some down side to nylon bead thread, BUT there is no other thread that works as well when you need to make fringe. It makes soft, supple, flowing fringe like no fishing line can make. Other bead weaving stitches are also softer when made with nylon thread. And it's very economical. My favorite nylon thread for making bead fringe is K.O. bead thread. You can read my review of K.O. bead thread at that link.
One quick note about Nymo - the thread on the bobbin is different from the thread on the cone. My experience is that the bobbin thread thinner and is more prone to fraying. I personally only use Nymo from the large cone. Yes, it's a bigger investment but I have had the same two cones (tan and black) for ages.
The most popular size nylon bead thread is size D. I compare it to ordering a size medium. It works for most situations. If you compare it to other threads, size D has 8.5 lbs of tensile weight and is .3048 mm in size. K.O. bead thread that I like so much for bead fringe is much thinner, with a tensile strength of 4lbs and .15mm. You can see a chart of the details of different nylon and fishing line thread from Fire Mountain Gems at the link. The chart includes monofilament, nylon, silk, stretch elastic and other materials. It is very helpful.
Below are ome product links on Amazon you may find useful to see the details of each product. If you make a purchase using one of these links I may get a small commission at no cost to you.
Nymo thread: a great all purpose nylon beading thread. The thread on a cone is different and is much better than the bobbins which tend to fray. Look at the label to make sure the thread says it is 'bonded' because I have read that it frays less.
SoNo thread: a non-stretch, non-fraying but pricey nylon beading thread that comes in a variety of colors
K.O. bead thread: supple, non-stretch beading thread that is great for fringe, but may be a bit soft for other stitches.
Silamide: 2 ply waxed nylon thread, comes on a card instead of a spool.
Beeswax Thread Conditioner: Beeswax adds body and protects thread from fraying. It also adds stiffness but it can clog bead holes. You can find it in packaging that makes it easy to apply to your thread.
Thread Magic: This conditioning wax was designed specifically for sewing and beadwork. Reduces thread drag, prevents fraying, is clear and non-sticky.
Choosing Fishing Line Thread for Beadwork
Fishing line types of thread are more expensive than nylon thread but they don't tangle as easily, hold tension well, do not need conditioning and are very durable and strong. They come in limited colors, however.
To me, they are perfect for beginners just learning to bead, although it is better for some stitches than others (remember what I said about fringe above!)
The original fishing line used for beadwork is mono-filament, a clear slippery thread. There are more options today - some braided and thermally bonded.
Some fishing line is distributed as a beading thread and a fishing line, so if you buy FireLine branded by BeadSmith as a beading thread, it is the same thread sold by Berkley as fishing line. It is usually cheaper to buy the fishing line.
FireLine is arguably the most popular fishing line used for beading thread. Other brands are WildFire, PowerPro, DandyLine, and NanoFil. Note that these are affiliate links for finding these products on Amazon where you can view the details of each thread.
Another fishing line I have recently tried and really liked is Hercules braided fishing line. (affiliate link). Hercules comes in 9 different fade proof colors and multiple sizes. I tried several different sizes and colors of Hercules thread and found it to work great for the brick stitch body AND fringe on earrings. It is unusual for fishing line to work well for fringe, so that is a game changer. You can find my review of Hercules brand thread at this link.
It is tough to pierce fishing line type thread and it doesn't fray. In fact, it is difficult to cut fishing lines and it can dull your thread scissors quickly - I was always told a cheap pair of kids scissors will work for this purpose. Personally, I prefer these thread snippers from Amazon. They allow you to trim very close to your beadwork project and have a satisfying feel and sound when you make a cut (not sure why, but I really like that). I bought a box of 12 of them, and now I have one in every work area, plus I've gifted a few to my beading friends.
Fishing line size is expressed in the number of pounds. Sizes most often used in beadwork are 6 lb. or 8 lb., but 4 lb. is also useful (some people use it for fringe even) and 10 lb works for larger beads or ones with larger holes.
I will post more articles on which thread types are my favorite for which purposes, but for now, my go-to Nylon thread is Nymo on the cone in either tan or black in size D. This choice may be somewhat influenced by the fact that I have huge cones of it though.
I like FireLine in Smoke Gray, 6 lb or 8 lb. FireLine works well for the brick stitch (or sometimes peyote) top portions of fringe earrings. It also work well for herringbone, including tubular herringbone, netted mandalas and other beaded ropes, beaded beads or chains.
*Note that these were my original favorite threads - more recently I have come to love K.O. nylon thread for it's suppleness in fringe and Hercules fishing line for all around bead weaving and even some stringing.
I have heard some people use 4 lb FireLine for fringe, but I have not tried that myself. Let me know if the comments if you have and like it.
Since writing this article, I have become a big fan of KO Beading thread - especially for making bead fringe. You can read about it in this article K.O. Beading Thread Review
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Comments
I bought so many of the little spools of Nymo in the late 1990s when I started beading and I still have them...I like the Toho OneG a little more than Nymo and I need to try some more weights of the Miyuki Duraline because the first one I bought was too flimsy for my liking.
I find Nanofil and Wildfire pretty similar to Fireline but had not heard of DynaLine before. I have some PowerPro but haven't gotten around to using it yet.
Sorry to write a comment this length, I have been thinking about this topic a lot lately and don't know anyone in my day-to-day life who has the least bit of interest in such things.
I like a size 12 needle too - although I am trying some different ones of those too. I thought Tulip needles were the only ones, but I used a John James size 12 this week and I loved the little bit of give it had when I was brick stitching. But I know they break much easier than Tulips.
I'm happy for your in-depth reply. I like to consider other beader's thoughts and experiences and know about threads I haven't tried yet.
I probably still have all the Nymo because I don't like using thread conditioner although I admit it helps a lot. I am using it lately to make some peyote samples for a project I have in mind.
For some reason after I use the smoke Fireline it looks like I have been reading a cheaply-printed newspaper all day. Maybe it is something about the combination of humidity where I live and the condition of the skin on my hands.
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